In two hours, I saw more naked people than I've seen in the last two years. Since the Roman emperor bathed in the mineral waters of Baden-Baden, this town has welcomed those in need of a good soak. And it's always been naked. In the 19th century, it was Germany's ultimate spa resort, and even today the name Baden-Baden is synonymous with relaxation in a land where the government still pays its overworked citizens to take a little spa time. I happened to be here when one of my company's tour groups was in town.
I told the guide that it was a great opportunity for her group to enjoy the spa. She said, "No one's going. They can't handle the nudity. It's long been a frustration for me as a guide β the difficulty of getting Americans into spas with naked Europeans. My first time was with my wife and some German friends β a classy, good-looking young couple. We were swept into the changing area with no explanation.
Suddenly they were naked and I felt like the Road Runner just beyond the cliff's edge. Then β we eased up, and got naked. It's not sexyβ¦simply open and free. Whether on a Croatian beach, in a Finnish sauna, a Turkish hammam, or a German spa, a fun part of travel can be getting naked with strangers. Traditional, stately, indoors, and not very social, these baths are extremely relaxingβ¦it's just you, the past, and your body. Wearing only the locker key strapped around my wrist, I started by weighing myself β 92 kilos.
The attendant led me under the industrial-strength shower β a torrential kickoff, pounding my head and shoulders and obliterating the rest of the world. He then gave me plastic slippers and a towel, ushering me into a dry-heat room with fine wooden lounges β slats too hot to sit on without the towel.
Staring up at exotic tiles of herons and palms, I cooked. After more hot rooms punctuated with showers, it was time for the massage. Like someone really drunk going for one more glass, I climbed gingerly onto the marble slab and lay belly-up.
